Tiling on drywall? Yeah, you can do that. It’s all about knowing the rules of the game, right? The first step is understanding that plasterboard can hold a reasonable amount of weight, depending on whether it’s got a plaster skim or not.
Without the skim, it’s like that strong, quiet guy at the gym, lifting about 32 kg per square meter. With the skim? A bit less, around 20kg per square meter. But remember, the weight of your tiles gets the front seat in this game, and topping it off is the weight of tile adhesive and grout ready for a cozy ride.
When working this out, don’t forget to leave room in your calculation for the tile adhesive and grout. Here’s a tip. Before starting this exercise, grabbing a roller or brush and the notched trowel may not be a bad idea. Why? Well, can’t have the dance without the dancers, can we?
The Fundamentals of Tiling onto Drywall/plasterboard
Let’s get down and dirty with tiling on plasterboard. First and foremost, plasterboard’s got the basics – it can hold a maximum weight of 20kg per square meter with a plaster skim and 32 kg per square meter without it. And remember that weight should include your tiles, adhesive and, grout.
It may sound like calculus, but it’s more like kitchen scale stuff. When you’re working with plasterboard, you got to arm yourself with suitable alkaline joint tape and the secret weapon – applying a thin coat of adhesive. And, don’t forget about those pesky internal corners and board joints.
In a wet environment, moisture can sneak into your plasterboard quicker than your neighbor’s cat. So, cover up, folks!
There ain’t no “just slap it on” when it comes to prepping your plasterboard for tiling. You’ve gotta ensure that your plasterboard is dry and securely fixed. Take a moment to prime, too.
The Moisture resistance does not falter even when faced with the toughest wet areas. In fact, it loves a good ol’ challenge from places like kitchens or bathrooms – places steamier than a sauna.
This plasterboard ain’t your regular Joe. It’s got water repellent additives tucked into the heart of it. Picture this – you’re tiling directly onto your normal plasterboard in a bathroom. The water just prances in and gets all cozy in the boards. But, with a moisture-resistant plasterboard, the water gets the cold shoulder.
If plasterboards were part of a fancy dinner, they’d have more pairings than wine and cheese! You got the standard drywall plasterboard, sturdy as a grizzly bear though it won’t hold everything. And do remember, every type comes with its own carrying limit, kind of like an elevator.
For this standard guy, the max limit is about 20kg per square meter if it has a plaster skin, or up to 32kg without a plaster skim. But hear this, these weights aren’t all about tiles – you gotta consider the adhesive and grout too.
We’ve got normal plasterboard, but then there’s its nimble, agile cousin – the skimmed plasterboard. Lightweight tiles stick to the surface just like a fridge magnet. But just like them comic book heroes, every one’s got their kryptonite. Here, it’s the heavier tiles—the skimmed guy’s got his pride but not enough strength to carry those.
Your plasterboard must be primed for action. Priming improves the bonding. Now, don’t forget to check the game’s rules – always ensure you know the total weight of the tiles the skimmed plasterboard can hold. If you’re doubtful, slap on an extra layer of plasterboard!
When it comes to dealing with plasterboard walls, think of them as a blank canvas. You’re the artist looking to create a masterpiece with your tiles. But before you start channeling your inner Picasso, bear in mind the weight of the tiles.
Too heavy, and you might end up with a disaster akin to a toppled cake. So, choose wisely or you’ll have trouble in your hands. Remember, you got to prime the plasterboard first. Then you can stick those tiles directly.
If your wall has contact with moisture – say it’s in a bathroom or kitchen – you may want to steal a move from the defensive playbook and consider tiling on moisture resistant plasterboard.
Once your tiles are tightly stuck, you have to treat the joints between them. A good waterproof grout on your side will stop the moisture from turning your tiling job into a damp mess.
Laying out and cutting the tiles is like setting up the perfect bowling shot; you need precision, patience and the right techniques. Missing the spot could result in an absolute gutter ball.
Ditch the cheap ceramics and opt for natural stone for a classy feel. However, handling these gems takes care. Carelessness could have you looking like a wall-eyed woodpecker, pecking away at lumps of board adhesive.
And don’t forget to deal with that bare brick or any existing damaged areas. That’s like inviting trouble to the party. Apply your adhesive on the plasterboard, but remember to spread the adhesive evenly.
You’re laying down a red carpet for your tiles, not creating a mountain range. And when it comes to grout mixing, there’s no ‘winging it’. You have to mix the grout like you’re mixing batter for Granny’s secret pancake recipe – carefully and thoroughly.
Okay, you’ve got your tiles cut, your adhesive spread, and your plan in place, It’s time to get those tiles onto plasterboard. Lay them out and press them gently but firmly. A soft touch, like you would with a fresh loaf of bread. Remember, each tile should stick to the board as if it was born to be there and nowhere else.
After you have finished applying all your tiles, it’s time for grouting. Don’t get hasty – test an area before grouting the entire wall. You don’t want any surprises like a tick in your picnic blanket. If everything looks snazzy, grout away! Clean off any excess before it dries, and you’re done.
Wrapping It Up: Successfully Tiling on Plasterboard
tiling on plasterboard isn’t just a slap-and-stick business. You start straight by checking if your plasterboard is of the bare, strong stuff, able to hold that weight. You look for that 20kg per square metre if it’s a standard one, or 32kg if it has a plaster skin.
Checking the plasterboard’s condition prevents you baggin’ up a case of tiles in a heap on your bathroom floor, you see. Plasterboards can be a bit geeky, by nature. They tend to be porous and can absorb the ready-mixed adhesive you’d use. So you’ll need to apply tiling straight, directly on the plasterboard.
You don’t want any adhesive seeping through and messing up with your 5mm thick ceramic tiles, right? Remember, preparation is as important as application. So, always plan your layout meticulously and be mindful of the weight of adhesive you apply, apart from a keen eye on cutting and placing each tile.